Compared to the older (1990s) versions of the EDT, the new one is good, green, vibrant, exhibiting the beautiful contrast between cool and warm notes. Chamade Eau de Toilette is excellent, with a nice tenacity.
That being said, it is still a great composition and its green floral character set against a modern oriental accord is beautiful. The parfum smells thinner and more attenuated compared to the original version, with a stronger vanilla note coming through in the drydown. Guerlain Chamade includes notes of Turkish rose, ylang ylang, jasmine, lilac, blackcurrant bud, lily of the valley, hyacinth, cassis, galbanum, sandalwood, vetiver, vanilla, musk, amber, iris and tonka bean. Moreover, the bottle is beautiful, and I would acquire Chamade just for that multilayered heart-shaped flacon designed by Raymond Guerlain a year before he passed away. Every time I smell it, I envision her walking down the street in a chic black Yves Saint Laurent coat and a buckled shoes, gazing around surreptitiously before stepping into her other world of Belle de Jour. Even though Belle de Jour is more of a Nahéma character, I imagined prim and proper Séverine Serizy to be wearing Chamade. It is elegant and sensual like Catherine Deneuve in Belle de Jour. Chamade takes its time to develop completely, but the wait is worth it. The green note gives way to a beautiful accord that seems to shine like a diamond in the sunlight. The extrait de parfum is miles away from the lighter eau de toilette. This is the case with Chamade, which starts out with a heavy green hyacinth note, however blackcurrant adds a tangy green layer, which cuts through the richness. As Moslih Saadi, Persian poet who lived in 13 th c said,Īnd from thy slender store two loaves (of bread) alone to thee are leftĪlthough hyacinth is one of my favorite flowers, I find that its lush exotic scent is often rendered as oily and heavy in perfumery. It is a blend, dominated primarily by hyacinth and blackcurrant. Symbolizing a quick beating of the heart of those in love, “Chamade” is another enchanting name given to the Guerlain creation.
Created by perfumer Jean Paul Guerlain in 1969, Chamade was a homage to Françoise Sagan’s novel La Chamade.
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